Euthanasia

Euthanasia

Most pet owners hope they will never have to face the decision to put a beloved pet to sleep. As difficult as it might be to think about, it is not likely that your pet is going to live forever. And the odds really do not favor her living to a ripe old age and quietly drifting off to sleep and not waking up, like most pet owners envision. Unfortunately most geriatric pets fade away relatively slowly and go downhill in a painstakingly long, drawn out death spiral. As the end slowly approaches there comes a time when the decision stares you in the face. Should I or shouldn’t I? Is it time yet? It’s at this particular juncture that I often see clients who are searching for the answer to these questions. Remember, this may be a difficult topic to face, difficult to even think about for some, but for most pet-owners it’s likely to be a part of your future.

Over the years I have found that in nearly every case the pet owner already knows the answers to the above questions. In my opinion, a person does not spend ten or fifteen or more years living with a companion who has been the light of his or her life, and make this kind of life and death decision without giving it ample consideration. I tell the pet owner the truth: no veterinarian knows better than you do. We perform a physical evaluation of the patient and we see the pet for a few minutes in a totally foreign, hostile environment where the adrenalin is flowing and the pet is as far from “normal” as it is likely to be. You are the one actually living with the patient for the other 23 ½ hours a day. Who do you think has the greater understanding of the situation?

I try to not insert myself into these cases. I do not inquire about further treatment, and I do not insult the owner by pretending that I know more about their pet and what they have been going through than they do. I have always maintained that when it comes to elderly pets and the end of life decisions involved, the owner has the greatest understanding and the most intimate knowledge of that pet and of what they themselves can deal with. They know what needs to be done. It’s not my job to second-guess, and I certainly have no business questioning their motives or their timing. End of life decisions are always difficult for everybody concerned. There is no point in offering suggestions that may raise doubts after someone has taken hours, days, or weeks screwing up their courage to finally do it. 

I am appalled by veterinarians who, facing a client who has wrestled with the decision of when to euthanize, feel that they have to throw out one more treatment just to prolong the end by another week or another month, rather than be supportive of a decision that has been carefully considered. All the owner wants is to feel support for their decision so that they can say good-bye without guilt. Sure, there is always one more treatment out there, but that’s not what the owner is seeking at this point.

I have rarely if ever encountered a pet owner who was guilty of putting down the aging and failing family pet too soon. I’m not talking here about young pets that are having temporary health problems. I’m talking about the terminally ill or geriatric end stage patient. If you are one of those who does not believe in euthanasia and prefers to hospice your pet, that’s fine.  Hospice is not something that I recommend to anyone unless they specifically express such concerns. Not everybody wants to watch the pet that they have loved and cared for for years, waste away and suffer a prolonged, agonizing death. The decision is yours and procrastinating does not make it any easier.

Spay Your Dog!

Pyometra – Get your dog spayed

Here I am on my soapbox again. If you own an unspayed female dog, read on.

A three-year-old female dog was recently presented to me, flat out and unresponsive. According to the owner she had been “in heat” for the past two months and, although she had slowed down and lost her appetite, she was doing fine until yesterday. We immediately admitted her, placed an IV catheter and started fluids, and began a diagnostic blood workup. However, in spite of our attempts, within an hour of her arrival she went into respiratory and cardiac arrest and died with no response to our efforts at resuscitation. 

So what happened? Why did this young dog get so sick and why did she die? The simple answer is: because the dog never got spayed. She was suffering from a condition called pyometra. It is the result of a hormone problem within the reproductive system. It often appears to start with an apparently normal heat cycle that has gone awry. In a nutshell, the dog goes into heat, the hormones within the ovaries and brain that control the heat cycle get out of control, and there is a collection of pus, sometimes due to infection and sometimes not, within the uterus. If the cervix closes down, the pus has nowhere to go so it accumulates within the uterus and the uterus enlarges. As the uterus distends, sometimes the body is fooled into thinking it is pregnant and all of the mechanisms of pregnancy kick in. When the time finally comes for the anticipated “birth” of the puppies or kittens, the cervix opens up and, to the owner’s surprise, instead of puppies or kittens the accumulated pus is discharged. While this pus is collecting within the uterus, the patient is susceptible to a number of potential complications such as septicemia (blood poisoning), kidney damage, or infection of other organs. The dog that we hospitalized was suffering from severe septic shock and her condition was just too advanced when we got to it. The “two months” of being “in heat” described by the owner was probably, mostly if not all, the draining of this pus discharge from the infected uterus, and the dog’s body was continuously exposed to that infection during most of that period. Sometimes in these cases when we dig deeper the owner will mention that the dog has had a history of irregular or nonexistent heat cycles. The hormones have been messed up for ages.

There was no reason for this young dog to have died. It was entirely avoidable. The simple act of getting her surgically spayed early in her life would have saved her life. We see this scenario and variations of it far too often. The unspayed dog (or sometimes even a cat) has been in heat recently and starts acting a little “off.” Sometimes we’re lucky to have even that much to go on. There may be no visible signs at all. In some cases the dog starts to leak small (or occasionally large) amounts of dark, bloody fluid from the vaginal canal. This bloody discharge leads the owner to think that she is still (or back) in heat. At times, when the condition mimics pregnancy and the dog’s belly swells up, the owner will present the dog as a “pregnant” dog that has been acting sick. There may even be milk present in the mammary glands. Fortunately, most of the time these pyometra dogs don’t die. But they often still end up requiring a costly emergency lifesaving surgical procedure that could have and should have been avoided by simply taking routine preventative action. Although the end result of the surgery is the same as a routine spay, the procedure itself is far more involved and far more critical – translate that to far more expensive – than a routine preventative spay. And, although this patient that I couldn’t save was only three years old, keep in mind that usually these pyometra cases are seen in much older pets – sometimes ten years of age or older. That makes the decision to spend often a thousand dollars or more to save her life that much more daunting. The risk is greater, the cost is greater, for those who are looking at a cost-benefit comparison the expected remaining lifespan is less – there’s a lot on the line. Why not avoid the entire scenario? 

The bottom line is that there are much more significant reasons to get your pet spayed at an early age than simply prevention of unwanted puppies or kittens. Pyometra, along with ovarian and uterine cancer and other uterine and ovarian pathologies, can be entirely eliminated as potential health issues in the spayed pet. If you have chosen not to spay your pet, watch for irregular or nonexistent heat cycles. Take it as a warning sign that something bad may be looming.

So next time your veterinarian talks about getting your dog or cat spayed, or you see or hear one of those ads to “Help Avoid Unwanted Puppies and Kittens – Spay or Neuter Your Pet”, instead of “help avoid unwanted puppies and kittens…” think “Help Save Your Pet’s Life, Help Avoid a Very Expensive and Dangerous Health Problem.” Get your pet spayed.

Limited Budget?

Owning a Pet on a Limited Budget

It is a sad fact of life in our society that medical care is a costly commodity and, unfortunately, veterinary care for our pets is not an exception to that rule. We may have an ‘Affordable Health Care Act’ (if indeed you happen to feel that Obamacare has actually made health care ‘affordable’ for anyone) for us, but don’t hold your breath waiting for government assisted health care for your pet. Therefore, for those who must live life with limited financial resources, planning in advance is the key. A rainy day fund is a must if you are ever faced with a serious and immediate veterinary emergency. 

If you don’t have a regular veterinarian, find one. Take your pet in and get a routine annual checkup and vaccinations. If finances are limited you might inquire about vaccinating your pet once every three years instead of annually. You should lose little in the way of disease protection by vaccinating every third year, yet will save some money. Monthly heartworm and parasite prevention medication can be a lifesaver over the long run. Don’t cheap out cutting corners that will end up costing more down the road. Visiting the same full-service veterinary hospital for all of your veterinary care needs will make you one of their “regular” clients and might help if at some point you need emergency treatment. They may be more willing to help finance an emergency veterinary visit if you are not walking in off the street as a total stranger. 

Have a functioning credit card and keep your payments current. After-hours veterinary emergency hospitals do not offer credit. This is a simple fact of life. Unfortunately a veterinary emergency is only an emergency for the pet owner until the pet goes home. If the bill isn’t paid before the pet goes home, it’s not likely that it ever will be, and emergency clinics live by that rule. An after hours emergency clinic is not a free clinic, and emergency veterinarians are in the business of providing veterinary care for your pet, not financial services. So, no credit! That means that when you have an emergency with your pet, you actually have TWO emergencies, both equally important. One is to get your pet to the emergency clinic ASAP where the experts can deal with the problem; but just as important is the other factor: coming up with the money to pay for it. Before leaving for the ER, get some money. Call friends, call neighbors, call family, or go to the local cash advance facility. Don’t waste valuable time standing in the lobby of the E-clinic arguing about how the money is more important to them than your pet’s welfare. The onus is one you. Find a friend with a credit card to go with you and make an agreement with him/her to pay whatever it costs. If you can’t provide a substantial payment, it’s very possible your pet will not get anything more than just bare minimum treatment. If you expect to get more than minimal treatment you will need more than minimal funds. It’s that simple.

Here are some steps that you can take to put yourself in a more favorable position should your pet need emergency pet care:

Save money and put away a rainy day fund of $1000 or more. That may sound like a lot of money, but most emergency situations tend to be costly; this amount should at least allow you to get started with some significant diagnostics and care while you scramble around to get more. If you have multiple pets, remember, these potential expenses and problems are multiplied by the number of pets.

Next time you’re thinking about a new video game, a trip to the beach or the amusement park, a new tattoo or another piercing, or some other expense, ask yourself how much more practical would it be to have that money put away for a pet emergency?

Set up a Care Credit account. You can do this yourself online. Go to www.carecredit.com and fill out an application. If you have a job and have any kind of reasonable credit rating, you may qualify for anywhere from a few hundred dollars to a couple thousand or more. Care creditis accepted at most veterinary hospitals and emergency centers and also is accepted by some human physicians and many human dentists. Don’t waste your line of credit on routine things. If you do, it won’t be there when you eventually need it. If you have crappy credit, they won’t touch you and you’re back to plan B – building your own pet emergency fund.

If you are thinking about pet insurance or one of those veterinary health care plans offered by the big corporate veterinary groups, consider the following. Most veterinary health insurance plans have limits and only make a token payment toward whatever the problem might be. You’ll be left owing the bulk of any significant expense. Not only that, but in all likelihood you will be required to pay the entire veterinary bill in advance before you are eventually reimbursed by the insurance plan for whatever paltry amount they elect to pay. If your coverage is through a veterinary hospital plan, generally those plans only provide a minimal discount on anything other than routine preventive care. And the plan is only good at their clinic during their office hours. You should realize up front that with corporate owned hospitals most significant health care expenses are generally overpriced enough to allow for the “discounts” you get, and, like most insurance programs, over the long haul you end up throwing away a lot of money. Don’t get sucked in. Don’t get screwed. Take the equivalent amount of money and put it away each month or each week into your pet care fund and you will likely come out way ahead.

If you are spending premium dollars on pet food, STOP! In all likelihood, any extra money that you are spending on a special overpriced pet food is a waste if it is taken away from your pet’s emergency welfare fund. If finances are tight, step down to something cheaper and put away the money you save into your pet health care fund. The nutritional difference between feeding something like Ol’ Roy and a “premium” food like Science Diet or Iams is negligible. For the most part, the pet food industry is a huge scam. Before you spend your hard-earned cash on overpriced pet food, try to be certain that you’re actually getting something that is really better than the cheaper brands. You may do well to feed the cheapest stuff you can get until you have your rainy day fund saved up. Then do your pet food research. You can visit dogfoodscoop.com or dogfoodanalysis.com. for information. They have done the research to help you tell the good from the bad. Most commercial pet food is pretty much garbage anyway – so why pay more than you need to? If your pet doesn’t do as well on a cheaper food (yes, some pets do actually do better on a more expensive food), then go back to the more expensive stuff. You can at least cut your cost in half sometimes by mixing a bag of the really cheap stuff with a bag of the more expensive stuff and save money that way. Then once you have saved up your emergency fund, go to a better food. You are what you eat – and so is your pet.

Likewise, don’t waste your money and risk your pet’s health by feeding nasty processed pet food treats. Boxed and packaged junk like Pup-Peroni, Begginstrips, and other pet snacks belong in the trash, not in your pet, and are likely to lead to health problems, not the least of which is obesity. Just because pet treats are labeled with “natural,” “organic,” “homemade,” “premium,” or some other marketing ploy, it doesn’t mean they are good for your pet. Avoid these kinds of treats and, above all, do not allow these sorts of treats to become a part of your pet’s routine.

Last, but certainly not least, avoid anythingChinese. There are simply too many unresolved issues with Chinese imports.

Get yourself ready! Don’t put yourself in that unfortunate situation of finding yourself facing an emergency and having to choose euthanasia for your pet because you have left yourself financially unprepared.

Topical Flea Products

A few words about spot-on topical flea products that you should be aware of.  In our after-hours emergency hospital we routinely see a few cases each month of cats that have been unintentionally poisoned by their owners.

Do not use any product on your cat that is labeled for use in dogs only.  “For Use in Dogs Only” and “Do Not Use in Cats” are a less offensive way of telling you that the product may kill your cat. Manufacturers are evidently more concerned with offending buyers’ sensibilities than with providing an effective warning. Don’t take a chance with any of these insecticides. Most of the time the offending ingredient is a type of synthetic pyrethrin. Advantage  is safe to use on your cat. Advantixis not. Although the flea-killing component is the same in both products, Advantixcontains a separate synthetic pyrethrin that is intended to provide additional protection against ticks. That ingredient is harmful and potentially deadly to cats. ALWAYS READ THE LABEL THOROUGHLY.

Do not use any product on your cat that is labeled for use in dogs only.  “For Use in Dogs Only” and “Do Not Use in Cats” are a less offensive way of telling you that the product may kill your cat.

Many over-the-counter topical flea products contain ingredients that are toxic to cats. READ THE LABEL. If it says “For Dogs Only” or “Do Not Use on Cats,” then don’t even think about putting it on your cat. Pet-owners often have a cat and a dog in the same household and inadvertently apply the dog product to the cat. Once again, READ THE LABEL before you apply it! Make sure you are using the right stuff.  Some owners try to save money by buying one product and applying it to the dog and then applying just a tiny amount to the cat. Don’t do it! Trying to save a couple bucks may end up costing you hundreds. One other thing, if you apply your dog product to your dog and your cat likes to groom the dog, you should be prepared for a problem when the cat licks the dog. It’s a good idea to separate the cat from the dog for several hours after applying a flea product to your dog, just to be safe.

If you should happen to screw up and accidentally use a “dog only” product on your cat, you should immediately bathe the application site with some Dawn (or similar) dishwashing detergent. Apply the detergent to the application site, lather it up well, and rinse thoroughly; then repeat and blow dry when done. Then get to your veterinarian before any symptoms are visible. Symptoms are generally neurologic. Tremors are the first thing usually seen. It may progress to stumbling and an inability to stand up and possibly even seizures. Prolonged seizures or tremors may result in hyperthermia, which can lead to permanent brain damage. In really severe cases a cat can die. In most cases the symptoms will gradually subside over 24 hours or so but don’t take the risk. Get to your veterinarian as quickly as possible for proper symptomatic treatment.

Occasionally symptoms similar to those seen in cats can be seen in dogs that are unusually sensitive. In that case, treatment should be similar to an affected cat, bathe it and get to the vet right away. Prompt attention and treatment lessens the likelihood of any serious injury.

Because of continuing increasing resistance to insecticides in the flea population, older, established products are becoming less effective at flea control, and new products are continuously coming onto the market. The older extremely safe products like Advantageand Frontlineare becoming less effective and therefore less popular among both veterinarians and pet-owners. In an effort to find new things that work, the ongoing parade of new products, both veterinarian-only and OTC type products, increases the likelihood of your encountering a less familiar product or of using something that has had less than extensive testing and marketing trials. Buyer beware. 

There are some new, up-and-coming veterinary topical and systemic flea products. I need a little bit of time to evaluate them before I get back to you, but hold tight. I can see some improvements on the way.

Seizures


One of the more common after-hours emergency presentations that we see is the dog that has unexpectedly experienced a seizure. The excited owner calls us in a panic and loads the dog into the car and brings it in for us to evaluate. Usually, by the time it gets to our clinic the seizure is over and the dog is back to normal, or is in the process of slowly returning to normal. I examine the pet and usually find no problems on the physical. We generally offer a diagnostic workup, which includes a complete blood count, blood chemistry evaluation, and fecal exam all of which the owner may or may not choose to pursue.  We also offer them the opportunity to hospitalize the pet overnight for observation, which most decline. At that point it’s time for the seizure discussion. It goes pretty much as follows:

Seizures can be caused by a variety of factors including trauma (such as a blow to the head), poisoning, an infection involving the nervous system, a brain tumor, various organ diseases and metabolic conditions such as liver disease, hypoglycemia, hypoxia, and so forth. There can be congenital and hereditary causes also. Most commonly we are unable to find a specific inciting cause for the seizure activity and those seizures are usually considered to fall into the category of idiopathic epilepsy. Epilepsy is quite common in dogs and usually first appears somewhere around one to five years of age. Seizures that have their initial onset later in life, say at ten or twelve years of age, are often caused by the gradual development of a brain tumor, while seizures that occur in the very young dog may be due to congenital liver disease. However, all of these statements are just broad generalizations.

Remember, no medication is completely safe. If it were, it wouldn’t do anything.

When describing the mechanics of a seizure, I loosely compare a seizure to an itch on our skin; only the irritation in this case is within the neural pathways of the brain. When our skin has an itch, we address it by scratching and the itch goes away. The seizure is a similar response on the part of the brain to address an irritated focus within the brain’s tissue. The brain is scratching its neurological itch. Just like with an itch on our skin, when we scratch it, the itch settles down and permanently or temporarily goes away. Similarly, after a seizure the irritated focus in the brain quiets down and permanently or temporarily resolves. In most cases no harm is done. Occasionally however, if the skin is scratched excessively or violently, it can be damaged. With a seizure, on occasion the seizure may be more severe or longer lasting and damage to the brain can occur. 

Just because your pet has had a seizure does not mean that the outlook is bleak. It does mean that you are likely to see another seizure at some point, but not necessarily any time soon. I once owned a dog years ago, a Basset Hound named Samwise, who had a seizure. I was walking him one day on his leash when he fell over, lost consciousness, and went into a generalized tonic-clonic seizure (what would be described as a grand malseizure, in human terms) that lasted for about a minute or so. He recovered after a brief rest, got up, and walked away and was fine. This event happened when he was about two years of age and he lived to be over ten years of age and never had another seizure. So, just because you have seen a seizure, does not mean that there will necessarily be more. It just means that your pet has a greater likelihood of having additional seizures in the future compared to a dog that has not had one.

There are three phases to a seizure. The pre-ictal or prodromal phase may or may not be evident. It is a behavior that is recognizable as one that occurs prior to the onset of the seizure itself. In human epileptics it is often referred to as an aura

The second phase is ictus, or the actual seizure itself. Seizures come in all shapes and sizes and a seizure in one individual may differ completely from those occurring in another dog. The seizure activity may be generalized involving the entire brain with loss of consciousness, and motor activity involving all of the muscles, or it may be partial and not involve the conscious brain and only some of the muscle groups may experience some moderate twitching. The pet may remain standing and just seem to be “gone” briefly before resuming normal activity. Regardless of the type, the nature of the seizure activity often has a tendency to be fairly consistent from one seizure to the next in any given patient. Over time the character of the seizure may change gradually but usually not dramatically from one seizure episode to the next. And usually a seizure doesn’t last any longer than a few seconds to a few minutes before it stops.

Finally, after the seizure is over, there is generally a period of recovery that we call the post-ictal phase. This period is characterized by disorientation, sometimes a noticeable behavior change, the pet may be unable to get up for a period of time, and often some stumbling and incoordination may be seen. It may last anywhere from a few minutes to several hours. If the seizure is not characterized by severe tonic-clonic activity (i.e. convulsions), sometimes the pet owner may have difficulty determining where the actual seizure ends and the post-ictal period begins. 

During a seizure, keep your hands away from the mouth. Don’t worry about your pet swallowing its tongue. Worry about possibly getting bitten if the mouth is chomping uncontrollably. If you are injured it reduces your ability to care for your pet properly. If it is a small dog, you can cradle it gently in your arms and gently and quietlytalk it down. Panic and excitement on your part may actually exacerbate the situation. Don’t cradle the dog on its back. Cradle it on its chest so that if it happens to vomit, it won’t aspirate. If you have a large dog, carefully pull her out into the center of the floor away from electrical cords, tables and chairs, or anything else that might present a hazard. You don’t want her getting wedged under a chair or knocking over a floorlamp. Keep your hands out of her mouth and gently pet her and try to quiet her down. The soothing sound of your voice and a soft touch may help bring her out of it. If your dog is one of those dogs that tend to become aggressive after a seizure (a rare occurrence but it can happen), use caution and keep children away until the aggressiveness has passed. The dog may not recognize you. Any time there is aggressive behavior you should consult with a veterinarian.

I recommend that you as the pet owner should start a log and keep a complete and accurate record of your pet’s seizure activity. Write down a physical description of the event: Which side was the dog lying on? Did s/he lose consciousness? Vomit? Have a bowel movement? Chomp the jaws and/or drool or foam? Paddle the legs? Which legs and did all four legs do the same thing or did different parts of the body do different things? Was it at night or while the dog was sleeping? Were there any unusual environmental factors, such as friends visiting, roadwork outside of your house, a thunderstorm or gunshots fired, a new pet in the vicinity or anything else that might possibly play a role? For the first visit to your veterinarian or a subsequent visit when there has been a noticeable change in seizure activity a brief video of the event might be worth taking along. But mostly these records are for your own use so that you can monitor any changes in the progression of the seizure activity.

Consider having a blood workup done. I don’t insist on it if the seizure is a mild one and has passed and there does not seem to be any immediate threat. However, if a subsequent seizure occurs I think it’s a good idea to check. We expect the blood workup to be essentially normal, but occasionally we get surprised. That is the purpose of diagnostic work. If an animal is not obviously sick, we expect the blood work to be pretty much normal, but occasionally we find something. I always put it this way: if we don’t look, we don’t know what we might be missing. Also, if we are considering any type of seizure control medication, a complete blood workup is essential prior to starting the medicine.

Should you put your pet on seizure medication? Most of the time, the answer to that question is NO. The purpose of seizure medication is to reduce the frequency of seizures down to an acceptable number. I generally aim for something less than about two or three a month. We don’t generally expect it to completely eliminate them. If we do not have a record (i.e. your log of the patient’s seizure activity) of how frequently the seizures are occurring, then we have no way of determining if the medication is effective. I have seen some patients come into my office for other issues, the owner mentions the dog is epileptic and is on seizure control medication. When I inquire when was the last time he had a seizure and the response is, “Three years ago.” I get a little suspicious. If the dog had a seizure and the owner panicked, and the veterinarian jumped in and started it on medication in order to quell the owner’s concerns, this patient may very well not need it. It might be a case like my dog that I mentioned earlier and the medication may really be totally unnecessary. Medicating a pet that doesn’t need it is just as bad as not medicating a pet that does. Although seizure medication is usually pretty safe, you should always remember, no medication is completely safe. If it were, it wouldn’t do anything.

Occasionally we’ll see a patient who has a very long, or very severe seizure as its first episode. Or that patient may have a cluster of several seizures in a short time or in a single day, kind of out of the blue. In these instances I will usually run a complete lab workup and start it on phenobarbital in an effort to settle things down and not risk another severe episode or cluster of seizures. Every case tends to be different and there are exceptions to every situation.

Very severe or prolonged seizures or a number of seizures over a relatively short period of time are a medical emergency. Don’t allow your pet to seizure for a prolonged period of time or exceptionally violently without getting medical attention. Prolonged or repeated convulsions cause an elevation of the body temperature and potentially serious hyperthermia, which itself can be deadly. Also the brain sometimes is more likely to be permanently injured by severe or repeated seizure episodes. Get to your vet or find the local ER.

As mentioned earlier, most epileptic dogs do fine. Most of them have an occasional mild to moderate seizure, and yet live a long and healthy, relatively normal life without ever needing medication. The pet owner is often severely traumatized by the first seizure and perhaps the next couple after that, but usually once they have gotten over the initial shock and surprise of the situation, most owners adjust to the situation surprisingly well and it may even become routine.

Jogging with your dog


Are you thinking about taking your dog jogging? Jogging can be excellent exercise for your canine companion but it’s fraught with a lot of the same potential complicating factors as for human joggers. Just as it is for you, a physical exam is advisable before ‘Max’ hits the road with you, especially if he is more than about five years old. Get him in to see your veterinarian. You may even want to have a complete blood workup done to look for any underlying health problems before you start taxing his system. And, if he is anything more than his ideal weight, you should start out very slowly with small incremental increases and ease him into his training routine slowly. If he is more than just mildly overweight, jogging is a horrible idea. It will likely cause pain and discomfort and maybe even some serious joint damage, which may require surgical repair. For obese dogs, weight loss needs to be addressed with diet first, NOT exercise. Here are some other tips for making your workout time together safer and more enjoyable.

Think about a hands-free jogging leash. If you have a well-behaved canine jogging partner it can allow you to run with an arm motion that feels more natural. If your dog is not quite that accommodating, then use a good solid normal 6-foot leash until she has learned to coordinate her routine with yours. Do NOT allow your dog to run untethered. It’s dangerous and, outside of the dog park, it’s illegal.

Remember that, just like you, your dog’s joints will better tolerate running on turf or cross-country-type surfaces rather than on pavement. How about a run through the park? 

Dogs are natural runners and can seemingly run forever but keep in mind that running a marathon is not a normal activity for a person let alone for a dog. Just because you are up to the challenge of a marathon does not mean that it is a healthy pursuit for your dog. Let him train on the shorter stints, but don’t push excessively. Remember he has no common sense, so you have to exercise yours for him.

Don’t take her out on a full stomach. Save the feeding for after the workout and after the post-workout cool-down period. Feeding just prior to running is no better for your dog than it is for you. Some experts feel that a large meal prior to vigorous exercise can be a significant contributing factor to development of a twisted stomach, especially in large and giant breed dogs.

Avoid beating her feet to death. She loves to run with you, but she may do so to the point of ignoring potentially serious damage to her pads from prolonged running on pavement. Stop periodically to check her feet. Cracks, cuts, scuffs, and abrasions are a warning sign to stop and take a few days off. Remember that once the pads are compromised they are likely to never regain their original strength and durability.

If the temperature is above 80 degrees and/or the humidity is excessively high, show a little mercy. The higher the humidity, the more difficult it is for a dog to cool himself adequately. Shorten or even skip the workout for the day. Your dog has no sense of when to quit and he’ll likely run with you until he drops. Heat exhaustion can occur without any warning and can advance to heat stroke, a much more serious condition, which is often fatal even with medical intervention. Most owners don’t have a clue there is a problem until the pet collapses. I have even treated professional working dogs that have collapsed while working with their handlers. It’s just not worth the risk.

If you are an experienced runner or if you like to push yourself, give your buddy a break and do a reasonable length lap with him, then drop him off at home. You can then head out without him for the longer portion of your run. This is an excellent way to accommodate the older dog or the dog that is just starting out. It’s your decision to abuse your own body, but pet ownership entails a moral responsibility to you to do what is in his best interest. And no matter how much he may love to run with you, it’s not good for him to overdo.

Obese animals should lose weight beforethey embark on an exercise program. Running will absolutely devastate the musculoskeletal system of an obese animal. Hips, shoulders, feet and all of the associated joints take a pounding in an overweight animal – not to mention the sudden cardiovascular demands of an exercise program. My suggestion is that your dog should be no more than about 10 to 15% overweight when initiating a jogging regimen. If your dog is too heavy, the answer is a reduction in calories fedfor as long as it takes to reach an acceptable weight, THEN gradually ease into the exercise program. Don’t be in a hurry. A blown cruciate ligament will take him out of action indefinitely, and when one cruciate goes, often the other one will not be far behind.

And finally, if you’re a biker I know it’s really tempting to take your dog along when you go bicycling and let him run along on his leash. You see people doing it all the time, but you seldom see the potentially catastrophic results. It’s really dangerous for both of you. A tragedy can develop in a split second and happen far too quickly for you to avoid it. I have had more than one dog come in in serious condition from being inadvertently injured by its own owner running into or over her. Allowing her to run along side you without her leash is potentially just as dangerous or even more so. Think ahead about the consequences before it’s too late.

Porcupines, skunks, raccoons

Don’t let your dog end up like this!

If you live in the north country, you’re probably familiar with these creatures of the night. They tend to be more prevalent in the cooler more temperate parts of the country and are mostly seen at night, although in areas frequented by humans, they can learn to do their scavenging whenever the time is right and the garbage is ripe for the picking. If you are a camper or RVer you will find out pretty quickly that these guys are around if you simply leave a little bit of food or a bag of garbage lying around. Whatever the case, in order to make your and your pet’s lives easier you should try to avoid feeding them or otherwise attracting them (e.g. don’t leave a bowl of food sitting around for your pet)

A few things to keep in mind: keep Fido on a short leash. Dogs love to chase any of these guys. Skunks, porcupines, and raccoons all tend to be fairly slow movers, plus in areas where garbage is plentiful they are often overweight so they tend to waddle along clumsily which makes them great sport for your dog. The problem is they all have great defenses, and when they meet your pet, the outcome is likely to be unpleasant, not to mention possibly expensive.

Remember that all three species tend to be attracted to garbage, most often at night, so keep your site clear of food and garbage and keep your pet close at hand at night. If you find it necessary to take your pet for a walk after dark make it a short one on a short leash, and stay away from the garbage sites. If you follow these simple rules, you probably won’t have much of a problem since wild animals usually prefer to avoid contact with humans and pets.

Porcupines have natural defensive instincts and a very effective means of self-protection. When approached by a potential predator, they tend to curl into a ball so that their relatively unprotected underbelly is inside the ball. All your hotshot dog runs into are the quills. If you have the opportunity, just turn around and go the other way – drag the dog away if you must – because most dogs just can’t resist the temptation to molest this seemingly helpless victim. Rover will first paw at the curled up ‘porc’, which results in a number of quills stuck in his foot. Then the dog may stick his nose down to sniff at the animal and get a few stuck in his muzzle. Finally our best friend may actually try to bite the curled up rodent and end up with a mouthful and possibly a face covered with spines. In the heat of the attack some dogs just don’t have any sense at all and the result can be a mess. Once the adrenaline of the attack has worn off, the injuries can be really painful.

If there are more than a few quills or if your dog is the really sensitive type, get her to a veterinarian immediately. The longer the quills are in place, the more the quills will soften up, and the more difficult they will be to remove properly. Removing them is extremely painful, so sedation or even anesthesia may be the order of the day. Don’t get that macho attitude and think it’s a simple task. Often the quills are lodged in the mouth or even the roof of the mouth, between the teeth, between the toes, and other places where you can’t even see. If there are only a couple of quills and they are easily accessible and your dog is easy to handle you can give it a try. You will need two tools (preferably pliers) – one to hold the skin down firmly (a slightly open pair of pliers placed loosely around the quill at the skin line works nicely for this) while you firmly grasp the quill near the skin with a second pair of pliers and give it a quick but hard pull. (When sedated, I prefer a slow steady pull. I think slow and steady is less likely to break the quill, but slow and steady hurts a lot more when the patient is awake.) Do each individual quill. If you try to rush it or attempt to pull more than one at a time, they will probably break off. If they have been left in place for too long, they will probably not come out cleanly and you will leave a fragment behind which can fester up and cause an infection. Also, quills lodged in a tendon or around the eyes can cause more serious problems. Again, your best bet by far is to get the dog to a vet ASAP and let him or her do a proper job of it. If you are in porcupine country the local vets will know exactly what to do. And do not try to cheap out on the sedation. For the good of the patient, it’s important.

Skunks are a critter of a different color. If your pet encounters a skunk, you will need a pair of rubber gloves and some soap and water. First give the pet a normal bath. Try to wash out any large glops of skunk spray. Then, to remove the stench you can use a commercial skunk preparation or you can pick up a large can or two of tomato juice and use that; or you can try the following concoction, which has been known to work just as well as pretty much anything else:

           1 Quart of hydrogen peroxide – standard drug store formula

            ½ Cup baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)

            1 Tbsp dishwashing detergent (Dawn, etc.)

Whatever you are using, after the pet has first been bathed, take your time working the product into the coat thoroughly, then rinse with clear, fresh water and repeat the whole process over again. Most of the time you will not be able to remove all of the odor, but it should get rid of the really strong reek and get things down to the point where the pet may be just moderately fragrant. If there is evidence of eye irritation from the skunk spray, flush the eyes with a plain eye irrigating solution and get her to the vet.

Finally, raccoons will usually ramble off or maybe climb a tree if given the chance. If they are cornered they can and will fight, often viciously. Save your pet the grief and the pain of some nasty lacerations and puncture wounds. If there is an encounter get the pet in to be looked at by a veterinarian. She should at least get an antibiotic injection and may need to have those wounds clipped up and cleaned out. 

All of these problems can be avoided relatively easily by simply keeping your pet on a leash – shorter is better than longer. And keep her indoors at night. You’d be surprised how much trouble a dog can get into on one of those long retractable leashes. A leash isn’t punishment, it’s your dog’s best friend; and, more times than you might realize, it may actually be your pet’s salvation.

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“Safe” Pet Toys

“safe” pet toys….

Every pet toy that you see – any pet toy that you can think of – has the potential to injure or kill your pet. There are no safe pet toys, only safe pet owners. It may be true that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but safety is most definitely in the hands of the user. A toy manufacturer or even a veterinarian cannot tell you that a given toy is safe for your dog, and there is no consumer product safety commission for pet toys. Any toy can be safe when it is used properly and under supervision, and conversely what is seemingly the safest toy, if left unmonitored and unsupervised, can be a killer.

So what’s good? I’m a big fan of Nylabones and Gumabones and Kongtoys. They are good, solidly constructed pet products that can withstand a lot of abuse from your typical dog with normal chewing and play habits. But remember, even these products can be dangerous if not used with some supervision and a little common sense. If you give a large dog a toy designed for a small dog, bad things will happen. If a dog starts to chew off pieces of the toy, bad things will happen. It’s up to the diligent pet owner to be wary of the dangers. If your dog is a super-aggressive chewer, nothing is safe. I used to buy my dog pig ears from a local butcher shop. They were smoked and looked and smelled good enough that I wanted to eat them myself. Organic animal by-products such as smoked pig ears, beef and ham bones, beef and pig hooves, knuckle bones all make great treats as long as you are aware of the risks. Dogs can break teeth on real bones and large dogs can crack and break up bones, chew them up and swallow them, and end up with an intestinal obstruction. The upside, if you want to call it that, of a real bone obstruction is that it is very visible on a diagnostic radiograph, as opposed to the plastic or nylon bone or rubber toy obstruction, which is not nearly so evident on film. Pig ears can be very rich and very fattening and can trigger some GI upsets or even a bout of pancreatitis. Also, any of these organic treats can suffer from the sometimes all too frequent risk of bacterial contamination – Listeria, Salmonella, or something else – in the packaged product, or environmental contamination once it’s been chewed on for a while and then left to lie around exposed to the bacteria in the house or yard. I

There is no consumer product safety commission for pet toys.

Balls can be good but are not without their own risk. Most veterinarians feel that a tennis ball is a safe toy. It is… unless your dog is a super-aggressive chewer or you’re not paying attention. I took half a tennis ball out of the intestinal tract of a dead dog years ago. Once the seal in a tennis ball is broken, it is easily separated into halves and chewed up and swallowed. Golf balls and ping-pong balls can be fun for small dogs with some supervision. Baseballs are okay for bigger dogs for playing fetch but if you allow them to chew for even a short time, they’ll chew off the cover (after all it is rawhide…), swallow it and possibly get an obstruction. If the baseball cover doesn’t get them, underneath the cover it is wound with yarn, which is extremely deadly if swallowed in a long enough strand.

Remember that NO toy is indestructible, NO toy is completely safe, and the longer a toy is in use the more likely it is to become damaged and dangerous.

How about a Frisbee? I think they are pretty safe. They can get pretty beat up, chewed up, and rough edged, but all in all I think a plastic flying disk is okay. Just don’t let your dog sit there and chew it up now that I said that. The pieces, if small enough may be relatively safe, but enough of them can lead to an obstruction and we all know now where that can lead. Just pay attention and you’ll be fine.

Cats love to play with those little micey things on the end of a long elastic string hanging from the end of a stick? You’ve seen them. These are really quite safe and lots of entertainment for your cat. BUT (saw that ‘but’ coming didn’t you?), if you leave the stick hanging there and your cat somehow swallows the string – dead cat. Swallowing string is probably one of the most deadly things your cat can do. It’s easily avoided by paying some attention.

So after all of this ranting, how are you supposed to protect your pet from unsafe toys? It simply requires that you think about any potential problems before you make a toy or purchase or before you offer a toy to your pet. Then you need to watch and monitor its use. Like driving defensively, try to envision all of the ways of abusing or misusing the product and make a decision about how much supervision will be necessary. A stuffed toy will need more supervision than a Nylaboneor a Kongtoy. A nylon bone or a Kongtoy may require more of your attention than a reasonably sized rawhide chew or a cow foot or pig ear. String and rope toys can be swallowed and can kill if left unsupervised but are fine when you are actively playing with your pet or closely managing things. Your dog may act entirely different when boarding or when otherwise left alone and may chew up and swallow a toy that has remained intact for ages. And finally, unfortunately some dogs are borderline psychotic and will manage to swallow just about anything that they come into contact with when the owner is absent. This is not the fault of the toy or of the owner but is simply the nature of the dog and may require some kind of behavioral therapy and/or medication.

Remember that no toy is indestructible, no toy is completely safe, and the longer a toy is in use the more likely it is to become damaged. Soft toys get chewed up, sometimes immediately, in other cases over time. Hard toys can injure your pet by damaging the teeth. Edible toys can easily be overfed. Animals can break their teeth chewing bones, hard nylon bones, or other hard objects. If your dog is a very aggressive chewer, watch really closely and be ready to substitute something softer and safer – but then you need to monitor that for any tendency to chew it up and swallow it. Life is difficult. Love sometimes takes time and effort. But that’s why your pet has you for his best friend!

Your Dog’s Leash

Using your Leash – your dog’s lifeline; where is his nose?

Let’s use our imagination… You’re having a great time visiting the annual WhatzIt Festival. Pets are welcome and you and Max are having a great time taking in the sites and the sounds and the scrumptious smells of cooking whatzIt at every turn. You stop and check out a menu on one of the food wagons while Max checks out the situation around your feet. He sees something interesting under the little concession stand and starts nosing around. You’re not worried. After all he’s on a 6-foot leash and nobody is nearby for him to bother, so you let him do his thing as his head disappears through a gap in the fencing under the little trailer. While you’re engaged in making up your mind over the offered food items you momentarily forget that he’s even there. Then, when he backs out from under the concession stand he has a box of rat poison stuck on his muzzle. Now what? What happens now and how do you avoid having this situation repeat? 

The really cool thing is that you will probably never even know how really effective a tool your leash really is – because your dog is still alive and sleeping safely beside you.

Obviously you need to take Max immediately to the vet and follow your veterinarian’s advice.  The doctor will need to see the box to check out exactly what the contents were, and will then offer you a recommended treatment plan. You, being the ever-conscientious pet owner, will follow those directions to a T in order to cover the worst-case scenario possibilities and, thanks to your and your vet’s prompt and proper treatment, Max should do just fine. That’s enough of this imaginary episode for now.

Now, what could you have done to avoid this fiasco? Well, in reality probably not much. You did really well. You used a nice short leash and you were keeping him carefully at your side. There’s not a lot more you can do and unfortunately accidents happen. What happened here is that you did not follow my words of wisdom to “Always keep an eye on your dog’s nose. Know where his nose is at all times.” Admittedly that can occasionally be difficult and sometimes we simply have to let dogs be dogs. However there is an upside here: because you had him close up and under your direct supervision, you were able to catch this problem when it happened – not a week or two after the fact when your dog is bleeding to death and you have no idea what the problem might be – exactly what might have happened if he were running around on one of those worthless, superlong, retractable leashes.

The real issue is that so many people don’t take the simple precaution of using a leash at all, or if they do, they use one of those long 25-foot retractable leashes. A leash is not cruel and it should not be viewed as some kind of punishment. The purpose of a leash is to keep your pet safe – out of traffic and out of harm’s way. If he was not on the leash, or if you had him on one of those 25-foot retractable jobbies, you probably would have missed this lifethreatening danger entirely. And Max would have passed on to that sorrowful status of an old pet memory.

In my classes and in my talks with clients I emphasize that a leash is your dog’s best friend. If you use a leash whenever you take your dog out for a walk, you will hopefully never experience the disappointment, the shock, and the heartbreak of losing your dog to an unexpected dog attack, snake bite, poisoning, or automobile encounter. It’s just not worth taking a chance. You cannot imagine the number of times I have heard a client utter the words “I don’t understand what happened. He never went in the road,” while standing over the dead and mangled body of the dog they had cared for so deeply. It’s hard to tell them that any dog will go in the road. It’s just a matter of what kind of temptation it takes to get them to do it – a squirrel, a cat, another dog, or whatever. And it’s tough to imagine a dog that isn’t going to be tempted by the swish and rattle of a snake in the brush or by the eye-catching sudden hop of a potentially toxic toad in the damp, dew-covered grass of the early evening. Remember, danger lurks – and you are entirely unaware, but your dog is on top of it all.

When we were living aboard our boat Fidelisin the Dominican Republic a dog-loving couple aboard one of the local anchored cruising boats watched their dog die from simply picking up one of the local poisonous toads in his mouth. They knew the toads were poisonous; they just didn’t realize HOW poisonous they were. If their dog had been on a leash, he might have been saved. In Puerto Rico we met a couple of liveaboards. They had stopped in for a couple of nights in the harbor in Salinas and had a beautiful yellow Labrador retriever. The dog was a real sweet guy and very pleasant and people-friendly. While walking the dog on the street in downtown Salinas on a beautiful Caribbean afternoon, they were standing on a street corner when, as they looked at the dog backing out from where he had his head poking around under some bushes, lo and behold, stuck on the end of his nose was a box of rat poison. (Sound familiar?) They brought him to me hoping I might help. The best I could do was to send him to the local veterinarian who promptly and properly dealt with the problem. So no, I don’t necessarily make up all these things! In the islands of the Caribbean they keep rat poison in a lot of very accessible locations in an effort to control the rat population and also as an aid to controlling the stray pet problem. That’s not the only place where this is done. Don’t let your dog fall victim. If you are a jogger, get a dog jogging leash. They make them. Far better idea than just letting her run along, loose and vulnerable.

There are other, less lifethreatening reasons to use a leash, such as keeping your pet from bothering your neighbor or other people, but the really important objective remains: it will very likely, at some point in time, probably save your dog’s life. And the really cool thing about that is that you will probably never even get to know how really effective a tool your leash really is – because your dog is still alive and sleeping safely beside you.

So be wise and listen to a little well-intentioned advice. A leash truly is your dog’s best friend and, if you can’t keep him tethered up tight, at least keep a close watch on where he’s sticking his nose. At some point it may very well save his life. 

A New Puppy/Kitten

New Puppy in the House

I have a good friend who recently called me in a panic. Her married son who lives a couple hours away had left his new puppy in her care while he was out of town on a trip. When he called to check on the pup, he mentioned that she should not allow it to be exposed to any other dogs because it had not yet had all of its vaccinations. She then called me all in a dither over the possibility that the pup may have already been dangerously but unknowingly exposed prior to her son’s phone call. All of her trips out of the house – to work, shopping, visiting friends and family – could have brought home any number of dreaded diseases, not the least of which would be parvovirus. So what is a mom to do….?

The key things to keep in mind when you have a young puppy around are fairly simple. Don’t invite anybody to bring a dog or another puppy over to play, and conversely, don’t take the puppy anywhere near anybody else’s house whether or not they happen to have any pets. A good general rule to follow is to not allow the puppy to travel anywhere except back and forth to the vet for its vaccinations until at least a week after the final vaccination. (And for those of you who think that the puppy’s vaccinations are all done simply because the breeder said he “took care of all that,” go see a veterinarian for the proper procedure. If you are adopting a puppy at the age when they are commonly let go by breeders, then any vaccination that has been done is strictly temporary. One or two vaccinations in a young puppy are not sufficient to confer long-lasting immunity.)  A dog does not necessarily need to have direct contact with an infected animal or carrier to pick up an infection. I recommend to my clients that they completely avoid pet stores (Don’t even walk in the door!) and any kind of event where lots of pets are likely to congregate (pet shows, puppy classes, dog events, pet-friendly hotel rooms, etc.). Parvovirus can be transmitted before an owner is aware that their dog even has a problem, and store and business managers and event organizers generally are clueless. All you need to do is cross paths with somebody who has a sick dog at home and you could very well take the virus home on your shoes. Obviously you can’t live in a bubble, but a few simple precautions hopefully will help. And your puppy CAN pretty much live in a bubble until his vaccinations are complete.

(There is one additional step that you can take if you are bound and determined to be more cautious than the next guy. You can do what we do in our veterinary hospital when we are keeping a parvovirus case in the isolation ward. In addition to a number of other precautions that we take when handling a case in isolation, to avoid tracking any virus outside the isolation area, we place a small footbath such as a kitchen sink wash basin with an inch or so of weak bleach water (1 cup of bleach to a gallon of water) in the bottom. A folded towel is then placed into the basin to absorb the liquid so that it doesn’t get splashed all over, and another towel is folded and placed on the floor beside the basin. When leaving the contaminated area, we step into the bleach water basin to get our shoe soles wet, then step out of the basin onto the adjacent towel to wipe our feet clean. The bleach water in the basin must be cleaned and changed on a daily basis, or sooner if it gets dirty. This hopefully provides an adequate barrier between the contaminated and uncontaminated areas. At home you could similarly place a basin outside the entrance to your home for you and any visitors to utilize when entering your house. It’s probably overkill but if you are intent on impressing all your friends with your dedication and commitment to disease prevention, this should do it. But there are still no guarantees regarding efficacy.)

Do NOT avoid visiting the veterinarian. Just don’t walk in with your puppy and plop down in the waiting room next to another owner with a sick dog or puppy. Let the staff know you have arrived but have somebody sit with the the pup in the car until you’re ready to be seen. Yes, it is true in veterinary medicine, just as it’s true in human medicine, that a hospital or doctor’s office offers an excellent place to get sick. But I will vouch for my hospital where I currently work and every hospital where I have worked in the past, that we do everything within our power to avoid contamination of our facility (as opposed to a physician’s office or a human hospital ER) when we have a suspected or confirmed case of parvovirus or any other possibly dangerous case. Veterinarians obsess over such possibilities. No veterinarian wants patients accidentally infected in his/her reception area or to have a reputation as a source of infectious disease. We keep suspect patients out of the waiting area when they arrive; they are moved into an isolation ward as soon as possible when hospitalized; staff members wear gowns and gloves to handle any suspicious cases; and all surfaces are liberally disinfected as soon as possible after possible contamination, even before we know for certain whether there is any actual danger. If you still have any lingering doubts or concerns, call a mobile vet, express those concerns, and have him/her come to you until the vaccination series is done.

As I told the woman who called me, if you keep your puppy away from other dogs until its vaccinations are completed, it is not terribly likely that you are going to pick up any kind of dangerous infection by violating any of the other above suggestions, but the more precautions you take, the better. Changing your whole lifestyle is probably overkill. I don’t think you have to stay home from work or avoid your family and friends. Just use a little common sense. Life is full of risks. Yes, puppies can get sick and die in spite of everything anybody might possibly do, but taking these few simple precautions certainly reduces to a minimum the likelihood of having a disaster. All you can do is whatever you can do!