Will Neutering/Spaying Make My Pet Get Fat?

A common question asked by many pet owners concerns the resulting weight gain that is often seen after a pet is neutered or spayed. Can it be avoided? How can you deal with this situation? Does a fear of having a fat cat or dog justify not neutering your pet?

There is one basic cause of weight gain in anybody – me, you, our pets, everybody – excess caloric intake.

Veterinarians have a basic fear of offending clients and thereby have a tendency to avoid the topic or beat around the bush when discussing weight gain. If you think your pet is too fat, chances are that s/he is. Most pets are. It’s not because s/he has been neutered. It’s because s/he eats too much – plain and simple.

When a pet is spayed or castrated, its metabolism changes. Like a neutered farm animal s/he becomes more efficient with his or her metabolic processes, so that a diet that was adequate in calories prior to surgery suddenly becomes excessive. The result is an increase in body weight – i.e. fat dog or cat.

The solution to the problem is to anticipate this probable weight gain and adjust the diet accordingly. I warn my clients prior to surgery to cut down on the amount of food after surgery and to consider moving to a lower calorie diet. Both changes together will go a long way toward minimizing any weight gain after the neutering procedure.

This is one more justification for neutering your pet at a relatively young age – well prior to maturity. While the pet is growing and maturing its nutritional needs are constantly changing and its food intake is adjusting to compensate for these changes. If you have your pet neutered during this growth phase, changes in its caloric needs due to the surgery will be absorbed and incorporated into its ongoing metabolic changes and will make the adjustments in diet easier to deal with. Be proactive.

The changes in requirements are a little more difficult to deal with in the adult pet, but the method is the same. Here you don’t have the pet’s growth changes helping you with your efforts so it will take a little more time and effort. Reduce the amount of food fed, reduce the caloric content of the food, feed a diet that is less palatable, and gradually increase the exercise activity. You’ll get there. Remember, there is only one cause for excessive weight gain. It’s not your pet’s fault. You are in control of the situation. Deal with it. Health and longevity are your main concern. There is no magic bullet. It can be a long slow process but if you are willing to do what it takes, you and your pet can get there.

Spay Your Dog!

Pyometra – Get your dog spayed

Here I am on my soapbox again. If you own an unspayed female dog, read on.

A three-year-old female dog was recently presented to me, flat out and unresponsive. According to the owner she had been “in heat” for the past two months and, although she had slowed down and lost her appetite, she was doing fine until yesterday. We immediately admitted her, placed an IV catheter and started fluids, and began a diagnostic blood workup. However, in spite of our attempts, within an hour of her arrival she went into respiratory and cardiac arrest and died with no response to our efforts at resuscitation. 

So what happened? Why did this young dog get so sick and why did she die? The simple answer is: because the dog never got spayed. She was suffering from a condition called pyometra. It is the result of a hormone problem within the reproductive system. It often appears to start with an apparently normal heat cycle that has gone awry. In a nutshell, the dog goes into heat, the hormones within the ovaries and brain that control the heat cycle get out of control, and there is a collection of pus, sometimes due to infection and sometimes not, within the uterus. If the cervix closes down, the pus has nowhere to go so it accumulates within the uterus and the uterus enlarges. As the uterus distends, sometimes the body is fooled into thinking it is pregnant and all of the mechanisms of pregnancy kick in. When the time finally comes for the anticipated “birth” of the puppies or kittens, the cervix opens up and, to the owner’s surprise, instead of puppies or kittens the accumulated pus is discharged. While this pus is collecting within the uterus, the patient is susceptible to a number of potential complications such as septicemia (blood poisoning), kidney damage, or infection of other organs. The dog that we hospitalized was suffering from severe septic shock and her condition was just too advanced when we got to it. The “two months” of being “in heat” described by the owner was probably, mostly if not all, the draining of this pus discharge from the infected uterus, and the dog’s body was continuously exposed to that infection during most of that period. Sometimes in these cases when we dig deeper the owner will mention that the dog has had a history of irregular or nonexistent heat cycles. The hormones have been messed up for ages.

There was no reason for this young dog to have died. It was entirely avoidable. The simple act of getting her surgically spayed early in her life would have saved her life. We see this scenario and variations of it far too often. The unspayed dog (or sometimes even a cat) has been in heat recently and starts acting a little “off.” Sometimes we’re lucky to have even that much to go on. There may be no visible signs at all. In some cases the dog starts to leak small (or occasionally large) amounts of dark, bloody fluid from the vaginal canal. This bloody discharge leads the owner to think that she is still (or back) in heat. At times, when the condition mimics pregnancy and the dog’s belly swells up, the owner will present the dog as a “pregnant” dog that has been acting sick. There may even be milk present in the mammary glands. Fortunately, most of the time these pyometra dogs don’t die. But they often still end up requiring a costly emergency lifesaving surgical procedure that could have and should have been avoided by simply taking routine preventative action. Although the end result of the surgery is the same as a routine spay, the procedure itself is far more involved and far more critical – translate that to far more expensive – than a routine preventative spay. And, although this patient that I couldn’t save was only three years old, keep in mind that usually these pyometra cases are seen in much older pets – sometimes ten years of age or older. That makes the decision to spend often a thousand dollars or more to save her life that much more daunting. The risk is greater, the cost is greater, for those who are looking at a cost-benefit comparison the expected remaining lifespan is less – there’s a lot on the line. Why not avoid the entire scenario? 

The bottom line is that there are much more significant reasons to get your pet spayed at an early age than simply prevention of unwanted puppies or kittens. Pyometra, along with ovarian and uterine cancer and other uterine and ovarian pathologies, can be entirely eliminated as potential health issues in the spayed pet. If you have chosen not to spay your pet, watch for irregular or nonexistent heat cycles. Take it as a warning sign that something bad may be looming.

So next time your veterinarian talks about getting your dog or cat spayed, or you see or hear one of those ads to “Help Avoid Unwanted Puppies and Kittens – Spay or Neuter Your Pet”, instead of “help avoid unwanted puppies and kittens…” think “Help Save Your Pet’s Life, Help Avoid a Very Expensive and Dangerous Health Problem.” Get your pet spayed.

Topical Flea Products

A few words about spot-on topical flea products that you should be aware of.  In our after-hours emergency hospital we routinely see a few cases each month of cats that have been unintentionally poisoned by their owners.

Do not use any product on your cat that is labeled for use in dogs only.  “For Use in Dogs Only” and “Do Not Use in Cats” are a less offensive way of telling you that the product may kill your cat. Manufacturers are evidently more concerned with offending buyers’ sensibilities than with providing an effective warning. Don’t take a chance with any of these insecticides. Most of the time the offending ingredient is a type of synthetic pyrethrin. Advantage  is safe to use on your cat. Advantixis not. Although the flea-killing component is the same in both products, Advantixcontains a separate synthetic pyrethrin that is intended to provide additional protection against ticks. That ingredient is harmful and potentially deadly to cats. ALWAYS READ THE LABEL THOROUGHLY.

Do not use any product on your cat that is labeled for use in dogs only.  “For Use in Dogs Only” and “Do Not Use in Cats” are a less offensive way of telling you that the product may kill your cat.

Many over-the-counter topical flea products contain ingredients that are toxic to cats. READ THE LABEL. If it says “For Dogs Only” or “Do Not Use on Cats,” then don’t even think about putting it on your cat. Pet-owners often have a cat and a dog in the same household and inadvertently apply the dog product to the cat. Once again, READ THE LABEL before you apply it! Make sure you are using the right stuff.  Some owners try to save money by buying one product and applying it to the dog and then applying just a tiny amount to the cat. Don’t do it! Trying to save a couple bucks may end up costing you hundreds. One other thing, if you apply your dog product to your dog and your cat likes to groom the dog, you should be prepared for a problem when the cat licks the dog. It’s a good idea to separate the cat from the dog for several hours after applying a flea product to your dog, just to be safe.

If you should happen to screw up and accidentally use a “dog only” product on your cat, you should immediately bathe the application site with some Dawn (or similar) dishwashing detergent. Apply the detergent to the application site, lather it up well, and rinse thoroughly; then repeat and blow dry when done. Then get to your veterinarian before any symptoms are visible. Symptoms are generally neurologic. Tremors are the first thing usually seen. It may progress to stumbling and an inability to stand up and possibly even seizures. Prolonged seizures or tremors may result in hyperthermia, which can lead to permanent brain damage. In really severe cases a cat can die. In most cases the symptoms will gradually subside over 24 hours or so but don’t take the risk. Get to your veterinarian as quickly as possible for proper symptomatic treatment.

Occasionally symptoms similar to those seen in cats can be seen in dogs that are unusually sensitive. In that case, treatment should be similar to an affected cat, bathe it and get to the vet right away. Prompt attention and treatment lessens the likelihood of any serious injury.

Because of continuing increasing resistance to insecticides in the flea population, older, established products are becoming less effective at flea control, and new products are continuously coming onto the market. The older extremely safe products like Advantageand Frontlineare becoming less effective and therefore less popular among both veterinarians and pet-owners. In an effort to find new things that work, the ongoing parade of new products, both veterinarian-only and OTC type products, increases the likelihood of your encountering a less familiar product or of using something that has had less than extensive testing and marketing trials. Buyer beware. 

There are some new, up-and-coming veterinary topical and systemic flea products. I need a little bit of time to evaluate them before I get back to you, but hold tight. I can see some improvements on the way.

Seizures


One of the more common after-hours emergency presentations that we see is the dog that has unexpectedly experienced a seizure. The excited owner calls us in a panic and loads the dog into the car and brings it in for us to evaluate. Usually, by the time it gets to our clinic the seizure is over and the dog is back to normal, or is in the process of slowly returning to normal. I examine the pet and usually find no problems on the physical. We generally offer a diagnostic workup, which includes a complete blood count, blood chemistry evaluation, and fecal exam all of which the owner may or may not choose to pursue.  We also offer them the opportunity to hospitalize the pet overnight for observation, which most decline. At that point it’s time for the seizure discussion. It goes pretty much as follows:

Seizures can be caused by a variety of factors including trauma (such as a blow to the head), poisoning, an infection involving the nervous system, a brain tumor, various organ diseases and metabolic conditions such as liver disease, hypoglycemia, hypoxia, and so forth. There can be congenital and hereditary causes also. Most commonly we are unable to find a specific inciting cause for the seizure activity and those seizures are usually considered to fall into the category of idiopathic epilepsy. Epilepsy is quite common in dogs and usually first appears somewhere around one to five years of age. Seizures that have their initial onset later in life, say at ten or twelve years of age, are often caused by the gradual development of a brain tumor, while seizures that occur in the very young dog may be due to congenital liver disease. However, all of these statements are just broad generalizations.

Remember, no medication is completely safe. If it were, it wouldn’t do anything.

When describing the mechanics of a seizure, I loosely compare a seizure to an itch on our skin; only the irritation in this case is within the neural pathways of the brain. When our skin has an itch, we address it by scratching and the itch goes away. The seizure is a similar response on the part of the brain to address an irritated focus within the brain’s tissue. The brain is scratching its neurological itch. Just like with an itch on our skin, when we scratch it, the itch settles down and permanently or temporarily goes away. Similarly, after a seizure the irritated focus in the brain quiets down and permanently or temporarily resolves. In most cases no harm is done. Occasionally however, if the skin is scratched excessively or violently, it can be damaged. With a seizure, on occasion the seizure may be more severe or longer lasting and damage to the brain can occur. 

Just because your pet has had a seizure does not mean that the outlook is bleak. It does mean that you are likely to see another seizure at some point, but not necessarily any time soon. I once owned a dog years ago, a Basset Hound named Samwise, who had a seizure. I was walking him one day on his leash when he fell over, lost consciousness, and went into a generalized tonic-clonic seizure (what would be described as a grand malseizure, in human terms) that lasted for about a minute or so. He recovered after a brief rest, got up, and walked away and was fine. This event happened when he was about two years of age and he lived to be over ten years of age and never had another seizure. So, just because you have seen a seizure, does not mean that there will necessarily be more. It just means that your pet has a greater likelihood of having additional seizures in the future compared to a dog that has not had one.

There are three phases to a seizure. The pre-ictal or prodromal phase may or may not be evident. It is a behavior that is recognizable as one that occurs prior to the onset of the seizure itself. In human epileptics it is often referred to as an aura

The second phase is ictus, or the actual seizure itself. Seizures come in all shapes and sizes and a seizure in one individual may differ completely from those occurring in another dog. The seizure activity may be generalized involving the entire brain with loss of consciousness, and motor activity involving all of the muscles, or it may be partial and not involve the conscious brain and only some of the muscle groups may experience some moderate twitching. The pet may remain standing and just seem to be “gone” briefly before resuming normal activity. Regardless of the type, the nature of the seizure activity often has a tendency to be fairly consistent from one seizure to the next in any given patient. Over time the character of the seizure may change gradually but usually not dramatically from one seizure episode to the next. And usually a seizure doesn’t last any longer than a few seconds to a few minutes before it stops.

Finally, after the seizure is over, there is generally a period of recovery that we call the post-ictal phase. This period is characterized by disorientation, sometimes a noticeable behavior change, the pet may be unable to get up for a period of time, and often some stumbling and incoordination may be seen. It may last anywhere from a few minutes to several hours. If the seizure is not characterized by severe tonic-clonic activity (i.e. convulsions), sometimes the pet owner may have difficulty determining where the actual seizure ends and the post-ictal period begins. 

During a seizure, keep your hands away from the mouth. Don’t worry about your pet swallowing its tongue. Worry about possibly getting bitten if the mouth is chomping uncontrollably. If you are injured it reduces your ability to care for your pet properly. If it is a small dog, you can cradle it gently in your arms and gently and quietlytalk it down. Panic and excitement on your part may actually exacerbate the situation. Don’t cradle the dog on its back. Cradle it on its chest so that if it happens to vomit, it won’t aspirate. If you have a large dog, carefully pull her out into the center of the floor away from electrical cords, tables and chairs, or anything else that might present a hazard. You don’t want her getting wedged under a chair or knocking over a floorlamp. Keep your hands out of her mouth and gently pet her and try to quiet her down. The soothing sound of your voice and a soft touch may help bring her out of it. If your dog is one of those dogs that tend to become aggressive after a seizure (a rare occurrence but it can happen), use caution and keep children away until the aggressiveness has passed. The dog may not recognize you. Any time there is aggressive behavior you should consult with a veterinarian.

I recommend that you as the pet owner should start a log and keep a complete and accurate record of your pet’s seizure activity. Write down a physical description of the event: Which side was the dog lying on? Did s/he lose consciousness? Vomit? Have a bowel movement? Chomp the jaws and/or drool or foam? Paddle the legs? Which legs and did all four legs do the same thing or did different parts of the body do different things? Was it at night or while the dog was sleeping? Were there any unusual environmental factors, such as friends visiting, roadwork outside of your house, a thunderstorm or gunshots fired, a new pet in the vicinity or anything else that might possibly play a role? For the first visit to your veterinarian or a subsequent visit when there has been a noticeable change in seizure activity a brief video of the event might be worth taking along. But mostly these records are for your own use so that you can monitor any changes in the progression of the seizure activity.

Consider having a blood workup done. I don’t insist on it if the seizure is a mild one and has passed and there does not seem to be any immediate threat. However, if a subsequent seizure occurs I think it’s a good idea to check. We expect the blood workup to be essentially normal, but occasionally we get surprised. That is the purpose of diagnostic work. If an animal is not obviously sick, we expect the blood work to be pretty much normal, but occasionally we find something. I always put it this way: if we don’t look, we don’t know what we might be missing. Also, if we are considering any type of seizure control medication, a complete blood workup is essential prior to starting the medicine.

Should you put your pet on seizure medication? Most of the time, the answer to that question is NO. The purpose of seizure medication is to reduce the frequency of seizures down to an acceptable number. I generally aim for something less than about two or three a month. We don’t generally expect it to completely eliminate them. If we do not have a record (i.e. your log of the patient’s seizure activity) of how frequently the seizures are occurring, then we have no way of determining if the medication is effective. I have seen some patients come into my office for other issues, the owner mentions the dog is epileptic and is on seizure control medication. When I inquire when was the last time he had a seizure and the response is, “Three years ago.” I get a little suspicious. If the dog had a seizure and the owner panicked, and the veterinarian jumped in and started it on medication in order to quell the owner’s concerns, this patient may very well not need it. It might be a case like my dog that I mentioned earlier and the medication may really be totally unnecessary. Medicating a pet that doesn’t need it is just as bad as not medicating a pet that does. Although seizure medication is usually pretty safe, you should always remember, no medication is completely safe. If it were, it wouldn’t do anything.

Occasionally we’ll see a patient who has a very long, or very severe seizure as its first episode. Or that patient may have a cluster of several seizures in a short time or in a single day, kind of out of the blue. In these instances I will usually run a complete lab workup and start it on phenobarbital in an effort to settle things down and not risk another severe episode or cluster of seizures. Every case tends to be different and there are exceptions to every situation.

Very severe or prolonged seizures or a number of seizures over a relatively short period of time are a medical emergency. Don’t allow your pet to seizure for a prolonged period of time or exceptionally violently without getting medical attention. Prolonged or repeated convulsions cause an elevation of the body temperature and potentially serious hyperthermia, which itself can be deadly. Also the brain sometimes is more likely to be permanently injured by severe or repeated seizure episodes. Get to your vet or find the local ER.

As mentioned earlier, most epileptic dogs do fine. Most of them have an occasional mild to moderate seizure, and yet live a long and healthy, relatively normal life without ever needing medication. The pet owner is often severely traumatized by the first seizure and perhaps the next couple after that, but usually once they have gotten over the initial shock and surprise of the situation, most owners adjust to the situation surprisingly well and it may even become routine.

Jogging with your dog


Are you thinking about taking your dog jogging? Jogging can be excellent exercise for your canine companion but it’s fraught with a lot of the same potential complicating factors as for human joggers. Just as it is for you, a physical exam is advisable before ‘Max’ hits the road with you, especially if he is more than about five years old. Get him in to see your veterinarian. You may even want to have a complete blood workup done to look for any underlying health problems before you start taxing his system. And, if he is anything more than his ideal weight, you should start out very slowly with small incremental increases and ease him into his training routine slowly. If he is more than just mildly overweight, jogging is a horrible idea. It will likely cause pain and discomfort and maybe even some serious joint damage, which may require surgical repair. For obese dogs, weight loss needs to be addressed with diet first, NOT exercise. Here are some other tips for making your workout time together safer and more enjoyable.

Think about a hands-free jogging leash. If you have a well-behaved canine jogging partner it can allow you to run with an arm motion that feels more natural. If your dog is not quite that accommodating, then use a good solid normal 6-foot leash until she has learned to coordinate her routine with yours. Do NOT allow your dog to run untethered. It’s dangerous and, outside of the dog park, it’s illegal.

Remember that, just like you, your dog’s joints will better tolerate running on turf or cross-country-type surfaces rather than on pavement. How about a run through the park? 

Dogs are natural runners and can seemingly run forever but keep in mind that running a marathon is not a normal activity for a person let alone for a dog. Just because you are up to the challenge of a marathon does not mean that it is a healthy pursuit for your dog. Let him train on the shorter stints, but don’t push excessively. Remember he has no common sense, so you have to exercise yours for him.

Don’t take her out on a full stomach. Save the feeding for after the workout and after the post-workout cool-down period. Feeding just prior to running is no better for your dog than it is for you. Some experts feel that a large meal prior to vigorous exercise can be a significant contributing factor to development of a twisted stomach, especially in large and giant breed dogs.

Avoid beating her feet to death. She loves to run with you, but she may do so to the point of ignoring potentially serious damage to her pads from prolonged running on pavement. Stop periodically to check her feet. Cracks, cuts, scuffs, and abrasions are a warning sign to stop and take a few days off. Remember that once the pads are compromised they are likely to never regain their original strength and durability.

If the temperature is above 80 degrees and/or the humidity is excessively high, show a little mercy. The higher the humidity, the more difficult it is for a dog to cool himself adequately. Shorten or even skip the workout for the day. Your dog has no sense of when to quit and he’ll likely run with you until he drops. Heat exhaustion can occur without any warning and can advance to heat stroke, a much more serious condition, which is often fatal even with medical intervention. Most owners don’t have a clue there is a problem until the pet collapses. I have even treated professional working dogs that have collapsed while working with their handlers. It’s just not worth the risk.

If you are an experienced runner or if you like to push yourself, give your buddy a break and do a reasonable length lap with him, then drop him off at home. You can then head out without him for the longer portion of your run. This is an excellent way to accommodate the older dog or the dog that is just starting out. It’s your decision to abuse your own body, but pet ownership entails a moral responsibility to you to do what is in his best interest. And no matter how much he may love to run with you, it’s not good for him to overdo.

Obese animals should lose weight beforethey embark on an exercise program. Running will absolutely devastate the musculoskeletal system of an obese animal. Hips, shoulders, feet and all of the associated joints take a pounding in an overweight animal – not to mention the sudden cardiovascular demands of an exercise program. My suggestion is that your dog should be no more than about 10 to 15% overweight when initiating a jogging regimen. If your dog is too heavy, the answer is a reduction in calories fedfor as long as it takes to reach an acceptable weight, THEN gradually ease into the exercise program. Don’t be in a hurry. A blown cruciate ligament will take him out of action indefinitely, and when one cruciate goes, often the other one will not be far behind.

And finally, if you’re a biker I know it’s really tempting to take your dog along when you go bicycling and let him run along on his leash. You see people doing it all the time, but you seldom see the potentially catastrophic results. It’s really dangerous for both of you. A tragedy can develop in a split second and happen far too quickly for you to avoid it. I have had more than one dog come in in serious condition from being inadvertently injured by its own owner running into or over her. Allowing her to run along side you without her leash is potentially just as dangerous or even more so. Think ahead about the consequences before it’s too late.

Porcupines, skunks, raccoons

Don’t let your dog end up like this!

If you live in the north country, you’re probably familiar with these creatures of the night. They tend to be more prevalent in the cooler more temperate parts of the country and are mostly seen at night, although in areas frequented by humans, they can learn to do their scavenging whenever the time is right and the garbage is ripe for the picking. If you are a camper or RVer you will find out pretty quickly that these guys are around if you simply leave a little bit of food or a bag of garbage lying around. Whatever the case, in order to make your and your pet’s lives easier you should try to avoid feeding them or otherwise attracting them (e.g. don’t leave a bowl of food sitting around for your pet)

A few things to keep in mind: keep Fido on a short leash. Dogs love to chase any of these guys. Skunks, porcupines, and raccoons all tend to be fairly slow movers, plus in areas where garbage is plentiful they are often overweight so they tend to waddle along clumsily which makes them great sport for your dog. The problem is they all have great defenses, and when they meet your pet, the outcome is likely to be unpleasant, not to mention possibly expensive.

Remember that all three species tend to be attracted to garbage, most often at night, so keep your site clear of food and garbage and keep your pet close at hand at night. If you find it necessary to take your pet for a walk after dark make it a short one on a short leash, and stay away from the garbage sites. If you follow these simple rules, you probably won’t have much of a problem since wild animals usually prefer to avoid contact with humans and pets.

Porcupines have natural defensive instincts and a very effective means of self-protection. When approached by a potential predator, they tend to curl into a ball so that their relatively unprotected underbelly is inside the ball. All your hotshot dog runs into are the quills. If you have the opportunity, just turn around and go the other way – drag the dog away if you must – because most dogs just can’t resist the temptation to molest this seemingly helpless victim. Rover will first paw at the curled up ‘porc’, which results in a number of quills stuck in his foot. Then the dog may stick his nose down to sniff at the animal and get a few stuck in his muzzle. Finally our best friend may actually try to bite the curled up rodent and end up with a mouthful and possibly a face covered with spines. In the heat of the attack some dogs just don’t have any sense at all and the result can be a mess. Once the adrenaline of the attack has worn off, the injuries can be really painful.

If there are more than a few quills or if your dog is the really sensitive type, get her to a veterinarian immediately. The longer the quills are in place, the more the quills will soften up, and the more difficult they will be to remove properly. Removing them is extremely painful, so sedation or even anesthesia may be the order of the day. Don’t get that macho attitude and think it’s a simple task. Often the quills are lodged in the mouth or even the roof of the mouth, between the teeth, between the toes, and other places where you can’t even see. If there are only a couple of quills and they are easily accessible and your dog is easy to handle you can give it a try. You will need two tools (preferably pliers) – one to hold the skin down firmly (a slightly open pair of pliers placed loosely around the quill at the skin line works nicely for this) while you firmly grasp the quill near the skin with a second pair of pliers and give it a quick but hard pull. (When sedated, I prefer a slow steady pull. I think slow and steady is less likely to break the quill, but slow and steady hurts a lot more when the patient is awake.) Do each individual quill. If you try to rush it or attempt to pull more than one at a time, they will probably break off. If they have been left in place for too long, they will probably not come out cleanly and you will leave a fragment behind which can fester up and cause an infection. Also, quills lodged in a tendon or around the eyes can cause more serious problems. Again, your best bet by far is to get the dog to a vet ASAP and let him or her do a proper job of it. If you are in porcupine country the local vets will know exactly what to do. And do not try to cheap out on the sedation. For the good of the patient, it’s important.

Skunks are a critter of a different color. If your pet encounters a skunk, you will need a pair of rubber gloves and some soap and water. First give the pet a normal bath. Try to wash out any large glops of skunk spray. Then, to remove the stench you can use a commercial skunk preparation or you can pick up a large can or two of tomato juice and use that; or you can try the following concoction, which has been known to work just as well as pretty much anything else:

           1 Quart of hydrogen peroxide – standard drug store formula

            ½ Cup baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)

            1 Tbsp dishwashing detergent (Dawn, etc.)

Whatever you are using, after the pet has first been bathed, take your time working the product into the coat thoroughly, then rinse with clear, fresh water and repeat the whole process over again. Most of the time you will not be able to remove all of the odor, but it should get rid of the really strong reek and get things down to the point where the pet may be just moderately fragrant. If there is evidence of eye irritation from the skunk spray, flush the eyes with a plain eye irrigating solution and get her to the vet.

Finally, raccoons will usually ramble off or maybe climb a tree if given the chance. If they are cornered they can and will fight, often viciously. Save your pet the grief and the pain of some nasty lacerations and puncture wounds. If there is an encounter get the pet in to be looked at by a veterinarian. She should at least get an antibiotic injection and may need to have those wounds clipped up and cleaned out. 

All of these problems can be avoided relatively easily by simply keeping your pet on a leash – shorter is better than longer. And keep her indoors at night. You’d be surprised how much trouble a dog can get into on one of those long retractable leashes. A leash isn’t punishment, it’s your dog’s best friend; and, more times than you might realize, it may actually be your pet’s salvation.

Please share this article with others.

A New Puppy/Kitten

New Puppy in the House

I have a good friend who recently called me in a panic. Her married son who lives a couple hours away had left his new puppy in her care while he was out of town on a trip. When he called to check on the pup, he mentioned that she should not allow it to be exposed to any other dogs because it had not yet had all of its vaccinations. She then called me all in a dither over the possibility that the pup may have already been dangerously but unknowingly exposed prior to her son’s phone call. All of her trips out of the house – to work, shopping, visiting friends and family – could have brought home any number of dreaded diseases, not the least of which would be parvovirus. So what is a mom to do….?

The key things to keep in mind when you have a young puppy around are fairly simple. Don’t invite anybody to bring a dog or another puppy over to play, and conversely, don’t take the puppy anywhere near anybody else’s house whether or not they happen to have any pets. A good general rule to follow is to not allow the puppy to travel anywhere except back and forth to the vet for its vaccinations until at least a week after the final vaccination. (And for those of you who think that the puppy’s vaccinations are all done simply because the breeder said he “took care of all that,” go see a veterinarian for the proper procedure. If you are adopting a puppy at the age when they are commonly let go by breeders, then any vaccination that has been done is strictly temporary. One or two vaccinations in a young puppy are not sufficient to confer long-lasting immunity.)  A dog does not necessarily need to have direct contact with an infected animal or carrier to pick up an infection. I recommend to my clients that they completely avoid pet stores (Don’t even walk in the door!) and any kind of event where lots of pets are likely to congregate (pet shows, puppy classes, dog events, pet-friendly hotel rooms, etc.). Parvovirus can be transmitted before an owner is aware that their dog even has a problem, and store and business managers and event organizers generally are clueless. All you need to do is cross paths with somebody who has a sick dog at home and you could very well take the virus home on your shoes. Obviously you can’t live in a bubble, but a few simple precautions hopefully will help. And your puppy CAN pretty much live in a bubble until his vaccinations are complete.

(There is one additional step that you can take if you are bound and determined to be more cautious than the next guy. You can do what we do in our veterinary hospital when we are keeping a parvovirus case in the isolation ward. In addition to a number of other precautions that we take when handling a case in isolation, to avoid tracking any virus outside the isolation area, we place a small footbath such as a kitchen sink wash basin with an inch or so of weak bleach water (1 cup of bleach to a gallon of water) in the bottom. A folded towel is then placed into the basin to absorb the liquid so that it doesn’t get splashed all over, and another towel is folded and placed on the floor beside the basin. When leaving the contaminated area, we step into the bleach water basin to get our shoe soles wet, then step out of the basin onto the adjacent towel to wipe our feet clean. The bleach water in the basin must be cleaned and changed on a daily basis, or sooner if it gets dirty. This hopefully provides an adequate barrier between the contaminated and uncontaminated areas. At home you could similarly place a basin outside the entrance to your home for you and any visitors to utilize when entering your house. It’s probably overkill but if you are intent on impressing all your friends with your dedication and commitment to disease prevention, this should do it. But there are still no guarantees regarding efficacy.)

Do NOT avoid visiting the veterinarian. Just don’t walk in with your puppy and plop down in the waiting room next to another owner with a sick dog or puppy. Let the staff know you have arrived but have somebody sit with the the pup in the car until you’re ready to be seen. Yes, it is true in veterinary medicine, just as it’s true in human medicine, that a hospital or doctor’s office offers an excellent place to get sick. But I will vouch for my hospital where I currently work and every hospital where I have worked in the past, that we do everything within our power to avoid contamination of our facility (as opposed to a physician’s office or a human hospital ER) when we have a suspected or confirmed case of parvovirus or any other possibly dangerous case. Veterinarians obsess over such possibilities. No veterinarian wants patients accidentally infected in his/her reception area or to have a reputation as a source of infectious disease. We keep suspect patients out of the waiting area when they arrive; they are moved into an isolation ward as soon as possible when hospitalized; staff members wear gowns and gloves to handle any suspicious cases; and all surfaces are liberally disinfected as soon as possible after possible contamination, even before we know for certain whether there is any actual danger. If you still have any lingering doubts or concerns, call a mobile vet, express those concerns, and have him/her come to you until the vaccination series is done.

As I told the woman who called me, if you keep your puppy away from other dogs until its vaccinations are completed, it is not terribly likely that you are going to pick up any kind of dangerous infection by violating any of the other above suggestions, but the more precautions you take, the better. Changing your whole lifestyle is probably overkill. I don’t think you have to stay home from work or avoid your family and friends. Just use a little common sense. Life is full of risks. Yes, puppies can get sick and die in spite of everything anybody might possibly do, but taking these few simple precautions certainly reduces to a minimum the likelihood of having a disaster. All you can do is whatever you can do!

The Hamburger (or Chicken) and Rice Diet

The Hamburger (or Chicken) and Rice Diet

I’m sure you’ve all heard it before at one time or another – if not from your vet, then from a friend, relative, or a neighbor. If your dog is having some gastrointestinal upset – vomiting, diarrhea, or both – we frequently recommend a “bland” diet. This particular diet is intended to be something that is easily digestible in an effort to help rest the GI tract and allow things to slowly and gently return to normal. Often we will offer a prescription diet but this is one of the occasions where a home remedy can be just as effective. Probably the most commonly suggested home diet is the hamburger and rice diet, or the chicken and rice diet, depending upon your or your veterinarian’s preference. Usually your doctor will also give an injection or two and send home some prescription medications as the main component of the treatment. The diet is to help the ease the transition from illness back to sound GI health.

You need to realize that, just like the medications given to treat the condition, this special diet is only a temporary thing. Sometimes we as veterinarians are a little less than detailed in our explanations regarding home treatment and our intentions may get lost in the hustle and bustle and barks and waggles of patient discharge time. The boiled hamburger and rice diet or the boiled skinless, boneless, chopped chicken and rice diet is intended to last for just a few days. I usually try to have my patients back on their normal commercial diet within 1-2 days of their visit or within 3 days if they have been hospitalized. In addition, it is important that the hamburger be boiled and drained of any and all grease – the idea is bland. The meat is only there to help give the rice a little substance and flavor. Don’t fry it, don’t lace it with taco seasoning, Tabasco,  Lawry’s, seasoned salt, or any salt and pepper – nothing. Meat should be nothing more than about 1/4 of the total mix. The rice should be plain white rice. It’s bland and easily digestible. Wild rice, brown rice, long grain and all of those other good-for-you kinds of ricy things are not as bland and therefore not as good as plain old white rice. The rice can be quick rice, or good old fashioned slow-cooked rice. Cook everything up, mix it together, and throw it in the fridge. It will keep for two or three days, and by then you’re done with it anyhow.

Don’t be like the little old lady who came in for a routine visit a while back. As part of any visit I always try to touch upon what diet  is being fed. Now I’m not a pusher of any particular diet. If your dog does well on its diet, then I’m a strict adherent of the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” school of thought. But I always ask just in case something weird is going on, like the “all-Oreo” diet, or the “potato chips and hot dog diet”, or some other oddball thing. But I digress…

Anyway, in the process of examining her dog I asked about diet and she mentioned that she was feeding the dog the hamburger and rice diet that her old vet recommended. I, of course, being the inquisitive guy that I am, asked if the dog had been having some GI issues recently. She said that, no, he hadn’t had any problems like that ever since he had been on the diet. So I discreetly inquired just how long had she been feeding this special diet and she told me that back when ‘Brownie’ was a pup he had some diarrhea and old Doctor Ned said that this diet would probably help. Well, the diarrhea cleared up and the dog liked it so well that she just kept right on feeding it and he never had another problem.

It’s pretty difficult to argue with that, but the fact is that a meat and rice diet is a very bad diet. It is completely unbalanced and is likely to lead to nutritional problems when fed long term. In order to balance it out, it would require a number of modifications and then, just like any “complete and balanced” diet it would no longer be simple. So the moral of the story is multiple:

  • Dont’ feed a hamburger (or chicken) and rice diet long term unless your veterinarian clearly specifies that you are to feed it long term
  • When your veterinarian gives you directions be absolutely certain that they are complete and that you understand them completely before you go home and do the wrong thing.

Don’t wait years between veterinary visits only to find out years after the fact that you violated #1 or #2 above.